Installing Windows In A House
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You have two choices with replacement windows: full-frame windows and insert windows. Full-Frame Replacement Windows. Replace the entire existing windows down to the house frame. Necessary when existing window frames are old and deteriorating. More advanced project Insert or Pocket Replacement Windows. Replace only the existing sashes with smaller windows that fit inside the existing frames.
Windows Replacement
Existing frames must be in good condition. More DIY-friendly than full-frame replacements This project gives you step-by-step instructions for installing an insert or pocket window from the exterior of a house. Some replacement windows can be installed from the interior or exterior.
Check the manufacturer's documentation to get specific instructions for your windows. Determine height and width of the pocket opening.
Measure inside the existing frame rather than between the stops that hold the sashes in place (you'll have to open the lower sash to get the measurement). Measure the height at the left, middle and right of the window. Measure the width at the top, middle and bottom.
Use the smallest height and width measurements when ordering your windows. Watch for tips on taking accurate measurements.
Don't proceed until you have your new windows and have measured them all make sure they'll fit. If your existing windows are older, they may have either sash weights or sash springs that you need to remove. If your window has weights, cut the cords and let the weight fall inside the frame. If your window has sash springs, carefully remove them (image to the right). Raise the sash near the top of the window. The springs might have plastic covers; if possible, cut and remove them. If you can't remove them, they will break off when the springs are detached. Remove the screws holding the springs in place.
When Maddy Krauss and her husband, Paul Friedberg, first laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-style home, they fell in love with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were also delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were still intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-bronze fireplace. The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This Old House TV's fall 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts.
The solution: Call in TOH general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install energy-efficient replacements. Because the existing window frames were sound and square, Tom could use insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen's Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with energy-saving, low-e insulated glass. These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings. When the job was done, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to love about their old house. Here's a look at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.
Replacement Players Unlike full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from as narrow as 11 ½ inches to as wide as 68 inches, and come in wood, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad wood, and aluminum-clad wood. There are three basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton house—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between. For these to work, the existing window frame must be level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame.
Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs. Because you're adding new jambs and liners, the glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before. Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they have a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the only option when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, inside and out.
Replacement Players Unlike full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from as narrow as 11 ½ inches to as wide as 68 inches, and come in wood, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad wood, and aluminum-clad wood. There are three basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units.
Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton house—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between.
For these to work, the existing window frame must be level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs. Because you're adding new jambs and liners, the glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before. Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they have a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the only option when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, inside and out.
The most important step in the window-replacement process happens long before installation day. It's when you measure the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure you order a replacement unit that's the right size. Here's how to do it. Start by measuring the inside width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the top, middle, and bottom. Write down the smallest of the three measurements. Next, measure the frame's height from the top of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right.
Again, record the smallest measurement. Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The two dimensions should be the same. If the frame is out of square by 1/4 inch or so, don't worry; the replacement can be shimmed to fit. Anything more may require adjustments to the frame.
If the frame is so out of whack that a square replacement wouldn't look right, you'll need a full-frame replacement. Finally, use an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a choice of sill angles. The first step is to remove the old sash from the window frame. In most cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash.
Installing New Windows In House
(If you're planning to reinstall the stops, do this job carefully; they break easily.) Next, take out the parting beads to free the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't be any beads. Simply press in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forward. Then pivot one side of the sash upward to free it from the jamb liners. Insert replacement window sized slightly smaller than existing window frame 2. Exterior-grade wood putty used to patch holes in window frame 3. Minimally expanding polyurethane foam used to insulate wall around window 4.
Wood shims for adjusting the window to sit level and plumb in opening 5. 100-grit sandpaper for smoothing window frame prior to priming and painting 6.
2-inch screws used to fasten replacement window to frame 7. Foam-rubber backer rod used to fill 1/4-inch-or-wider gaps prior to caulking 8. Interior window stops needed if the original stops broke during removal 9. Paintbrush, primer and paint for applying fresh finish to window frame.